As I ponder the investment necessary to build my own pinball machine, this site has some good posts that cover each component of the average table.
Big New Update™ to my demo game, Ninjammer! Major update with new features and improved gameplay! W00t!
Cant believe I didn’t post a link to the game! It’s http://aaronarlof.me/game
L / R arrows to move
Up to jump
X to attack
Sure, it doesn’t look like much, but even the way it is right now, it’s a huge accomplishment for me.
This project has been sitting idle for at least a month, or, for too long. That time hasn’t been all empty, some of it was spent on learning more about molding & casting for indie toy design (see the last few posts), prepping for and filing my taxes (I’m a single person business, so they’re more complicated), and other life stuff.
The feeling of clicking Send in TurboTax, mailling the check, and knowing all that junk was past, lifted a huge burden off my mind. That wonderful, just-freed mind space could now be used for more fun projects, like picking back up the work on this “pre” game. Ninjammer is meant to be a functional framework for an original game design, to be announced in the future. Working off existing game art and music makes it so much easier to focus on building the game’s play features.
I recommend this method for solo and very small indie teams.
While this blog has lately been indie toy design photos and updates, it will also be a single source for progress notes on this, and future, game projects.
I love talking to other indie toy & game designers, send me a message, or find me on Twitter, Instagram, and Kik at @arloft, and my fledgling programming blog, over at http://aaronarlof.me/stories. The title is a work in progress. :)
Ninjammer Change log:
added: player health tracking
added: player health amount displayed during gameplay
added: enemy count tracking
added: remaining enemy count displayed during gameplay
added: player character is bounced back when touching an enemy
added: level restarts when player destroys all visible enemies
added: level restarts when player health reaches zero
added: health and enemy counts reset on level restart
fixed: enemies respawn on restart of level
Red Goddess Indie Game Kickstarter Project by Yanim Studio
This game concept seems cool, exploring the character’s mind and subconscious via the metaphor of exploring a planet. It’s a neat twist on traditional platforming and combat. The art style is great too. They’re trying to raise enough cash monies to get the game finished. Help out by backing them for even a few dollars because when you’re indie, every dollar counts!
They have 6 days left and still need $20,000! Go help them!
Finally started pouring casts again. Don’t know what my problem was that kept me from it for the past month or so. I made a big deal to get the pressure tank, spent money on parts, time putting it together and testing, testing, and re-testing to figure out the pressure settings. All that tinkering and I just let it sit. Dumb.
All that aside, I got over it today and doled out some resin into mixing cups, added the orange tint, and filled the air compressor tank. Checked and double checked everything before pouring together parts A + B . Messing up something that would’ve junked the whole cast would have made me feel stupid, and certainly gotten me down enough to take another pause. I’m glad I spent the time checking, because the cast came out ok. Sure, there are some defects, but at this point, I’m pretty sure those are flaws in the mold itself.
So, the pressure cast revealed more small defects and air pockets in the mold surface, which filled with resin under pressure, and the mold shifted a bit (from the lack of registration keys) leaving a lip half way around the seam. There’s no fixing it, but I’m not concerned about it now. Also, a tiny air bubble was left in the tail near the pour spout, so that’s another defect. Even before trimming off the flash and sanding the rough spots, the pressurized cast turned out pretty well, so I’m happy.
I’m happy to say this won’t be the last mold or cast. :) Next, I’m thinking of doing a couple pieces, one original, and the other will likely be some custom MOTUC part, like a head or armor accessory, something a bit easier to keep the ball rolling.
My pal is trying to raise funds for his mini-comic series that complements his awesome indie toy line. I’ve already backed him for $50 but there’s only 6 days left!! Go help him!
Visit the Kickstarter and back it!!
#kickstarter #indietoys #indiecomics #makecomics #motuc #motu #toycrewbuddies #art #comics #comicbooks #minicomics #retro #modern #toys #actionfigures #supportindieartists #indieartists #indiana #lafayette #warlordsofwor #chicago #indianapolis #artists #help
I’m away from home for the weekend, so no progress on resin casting :( Instead, I’ll be picking back up my indie game learning project, Ninjammer. I’m building it with Construct 2, to get a better understanding of the tool. Once this intro project is done, I’ll be retooling the game for my actual indie game project, which I have yet to announce.
Construct 2 has free & Pro versions, but it’s also Windows only, which sometimes stunts me from working on it. My main setup is Mac, and booting into Windows for just this project takes extra motivation. Sad but true.
Want to make your own (2D) indie game? Learn along side me! Download the app, install Github, and fork my repo!
Haven’t made any updates in the last couple weeks. I decided to hold off on pouring more resin casts until I got a pressure tank setup.
Well, I got the tank, air compressor, and miscellaneous parts last weekend. Put it together, and realized I was missing some small parts needed to convert the paint pressure tank into a pressure pot. Many indie resin casters use this particular Harbor Freight tank, so I don’t need to explain the conversion. It’s really just capping off a couple lines.
Ran a few tests today (March 6), and found a few problems. 1) it wouldn’t hold over 40-42 psi without popping the tank’s safety valve. 2) there was no way to turn off the compressor and maintain pressure inside the tank; it would immediately flow out through the input hose. 3) I didn’t know the exact pressure inside the tank, except what is shown on the regulator’s gauge.
This called for another trip to Home Depot and another $20 in parts. But now it should be ready. I have to re-tape and reconnect all the parts, and run a couple more tests on the empty tank.
Second semi-successful resin cast piece. Obvious big flaws are the huge air bubbles on the bottom at the chin and base of the hair. Several tiny air bubbles were also caught at the tips of some hair spikes. Added some orange tint but it seems one drop isn’t enough for the roughly 4 oz. of resin I mixed up. The result is this pale peach color.
Had a little resin leftover from the Blanka cast, so I poured it into the dinosaur mold, to see if I could make a hollow cast. Apparently, the resin was setting up already, or I wasn’t turning the mold fast enough to cover all the sides. It only coated about 3/4 of the mold, and this is what I got, a Dinobackasaur. Haha.
While there are some big problems with these casts, but what did I learn? — 1) use more orange tint; 1 drop in 4 oz. of Smoothcast 300 gives you this color. — 2) make a better mold; these both have no, or sloppy, parting lines (the seam where mold halves meet), so more planning is needed on future molds. — 3) Using a pressure chamber may remove some or all of these air bubbles. — 4) if doing a hollow (roto cast) mold, Smoothcast 300, and 325, set up very fast, maybe too fast for roto.
Each of these is an important lesson, as there’s no “undo” button in real life art projects, so better planning and more education is never a bad thing. They will save you time and, importantly, money, as the tools and material can get expensive.
I may try one or two more casts with the dinosaur mold, maybe once I get a pressure pot. After that, I’m going to retire both of these molds. They’re too low quality to continue using but worked well as learning experiences. Aside from that, next step is to start a new mold, using the things I’ve learned to make it better.